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Friday, January 26, 2018

Peri(Quito)

I was without internet for a week and before that I was busy pretty much all day and night. I’ll slowly write blog posts about what I’ve been up to, starting with this one. When I last wrote, I was full of eggs and had just arrived in Quito.

*Note* the title is a hint for what happened on our next adventure.


Ohafa and I arrived late to Quito and were too stubborn to take the over priced taxi so we figured we would try and learn the public bus system at one in the morning. Ohafa’s navigation skills got us within a few blocks of our hostel after 2 separate local buses. We walked the rest of the way to our hostel and awoke the unhappy hostel owner. When it was all said and down, we were finally settled in bed around 2:30am.

We woke up early and moved our things to the hostel we would be staying at for the next couple of days. My friends would be meeting us there that night. The hostel was still serving breakfast and so we sat and ate our first real meal in days. I’m not sure any picture could capture our joy as the plates of hot food were brought to us. (upon further review, I didn't even take a picture because I was so excited to eat) Ohafa had pancakes and I had avocado toast with eggs (couldn’t stay away from the eggs). We met a couple from Chicago during the meal. They had just flown in and would be volunteering for the next month at the hostel.

We took the day to explore and gave ourselves a self-guided walking tour of the city. We found an amazing church, one of the most beautiful insides of a church I had ever seen. 


Ohafa getting really into his photography








We also found a museum that had a box of building blocks labeled “prohibited not to play with” so, we had to play.




We had a relaxing rest of the evening which included reading on the amazing hammock that overlooked the city and eventually playing cards with people from all over the world. There were some brothers from Switzerland, an English girl, a guy from Ireland, a couple from Germany, and a guy from the Netherlands. It is one of my favorite things about traveling, meeting people from all over and just hanging out together like normal people of the same age. Sharing stories of travel and culture and taunting each other in the game.


Not that I need to say it, but the sunset views were incredible

Around 2am, Ohafa and I went to the lobby to wait for my friends to arrive. When the doorbell to the hostel rang, we excitedly ran to the door to welcome them with roses that we had bought. It wasn’t them, so that was awkward because we had no idea what to tell them when they asked what room they should stay in. Not long after, the bell rang again, and we did the same thing, ran to the door with the roses. Turns out, 2am is a common time for people to arrive because most flights arrive late. Finally, our friends arrive for real and we headed to the room because most of them had been traveling for the better part of 24 hours.

In the morning, we decided it was better my friends who had just arrived should take the morning off to adjust to the altitude, shake the jet lag, and just relax a little. Ohafa and I took a walking tour while they slept in.

The tour ended up being super interesting because it was lead by someone who was born in raised in Quito and who studied the history of the city for her undergrad. Instead of just point out interesting buildings in the area, she spent most of the time sharing her culture with us.

There are 14 distinct indigenous groups in Ecuador. Our guide talked about the trend of younger generations not wanting to live like their ancestors and learn the languages/live in the little villages or in the jungle, etc. The strong influence of indigenous culture still exists, even in huge cities like Quito.  She explained how a lot of Ecuadorians use Shamans and non-western medicine.

She explained a personal experience that she had with a shaman. The guinea pig is an important animal (they even eat it) and they use it to diagnose someone. She told us how the guinea pig detects energies and also can check for sickness when the Shaman uses it. They place the guinea pig on your body and it walks around and absorbs the illness. After, it will either pass out or die. If it dies, it means that the problem is really serious. If it dies, the shaman checks the guinea pig to see what killed it. For example, if it was a problem in the intestines, it means that the person it was diagnosing has a problem with the intestines. So, whatever killed the animal is what is wrong with the person it was diagnosing.

We got to visit the office of a shaman as well which was really cool. The shaman was busy teaching a class but our guide explained more about the practice.

The last place we visited was the place that Ohafa and I went to play games. In reality, the walking tour ended up going to all of the places that Ohafa and I had discovered on our own which was cool for 2 reasons. 1. We learned that we are really good self-guided tour guides and 2. We got to learn more about the sites that we thought we had already saw.

Back at the museum with the toys we learned more about indigenous culture and also learned that the house was an old Spanish house. The guide further explained that you could tell it was owned by a rich Spaniard who was colonizing for one obvious reason, and then she directed our attention the floor. On the floor, there were detailed tiles that Ohafa and I paid little attention to the first time.

Upon further look, we realized that the design was made out of rocks and bones, some human. The more bones used, the higher the importance of the owner, so because of all the bones, it was clear that the owner was a higher up. The used bones to ward off the indigenous people. They were used as a threat that if the indigenous people tried to enter the house, their bones could be the next to be added to the floor.

The bones line the rocks, in this picture they are animal bones but in near by tiles you could see that the pattern was made out of human bones
We left the tour early to meet back up with my friends.

*For the record and the sake of the rest of the blog posts where they are featured my friends are, as I mentioned, most of my closest friends in law school. We call ourselves the Law GFs and they are Margaret, Emily, Molly and Claire (not present is Arielle) so from now on, I will either refer to them by name or by the Law GFs. This ends today’s public service announcement*

Not an easy picture to see what we all look like but from left to right it is Claire, Arielle, Molly, Emily, Margaret and I. For those who are curious, we are dressed up as various versions of Taylor Swift for Emily's birthday.
So, we met up with the Law GFs who had experienced the joy that is the hostel breakfast. We decided to visit the “Mitad del Mundo” aka middle of the world aka the equator. We also learned that it isn’t the real equator line. It was originally thought to be but with the advance in technology, they realized the latitude of La Mitad del Mundo monument is 0°00'08”, placing it about 250 meters south of the equator. But after spending all that money on this place, nobody was going to tell tourists that or move the monument. There is another site labeled “the real middle of the world” but it there is a lot less to do and see there so we settled for the tourist trap and fake middle of the world. 

We decided to go there by local bus and save money and return in cab to save time. We didn’t realize at the time what an ordeal the local bus system would be or how memorable cab ride home would be.
Before boarding our first bus, we stopped at a bread shop that Ohafa and I had found and frequented in our short time in Quito called Tortas Colombianas. There are bread shops on nearly every street corner in most South American cities, but we picked out this specific one to stay connected to Colombia 😉

After that, we got (bad) instructions about what bus to take and where to go to the Mitad del Mundo. In the end, a journey that should have been an 1 hour and 45 minutes and two buses turned into a 3 hour journey on 3 different busses.

I had already been here but I was pleasantly surprised that they had significantly built up the tourism a the site, adding various museums and other little attractions to make it a new experience for me as well.  






Samuel, answering the question you asked me the first time I traveled to South America.
We did plenty of exploring and took our fair share of pictures at the fake middle of the world. After, we indulged in some amazing Ecuadorian chocolate desserts and had a mini adventure finding a good empanada place.


A Molly classic "take my photo" moment

I'm not sure if I already mentioned this but a lot of South American countries raise guinea pigs to be eaten. They are also really revered by Shamans, for this reason they are a common symbol around.










When it came time to leave, we went to find 2 taxis, since we are a group of 6, traveling is a bit tough. It usually resulted in Ohafa and I splitting up because we were the most proficient Spanish speakers. This time, when we stopped the first taxi, he said he would take us all. His car was not large by any means but, the offer was too good for students on a budget to refuse. We all piled in, 2 in the passenger seat and 4 in the back.


 After about 30 minutes of mildly uncomfortable travel, the taxi driver stopped and said that one person had to get out because of the police. Confused, I started to explain that we wouldn’t just leave one person on the side of the road, meanwhile Molly, accepting her fate, just got out of the car. After some explaining, I realized what the taxi driver was saying was that only one person could be in the front seat or the police would pull him over. Somehow, I drew the lucky straw and I comfortably got the front seat to myself while everyone else jigsawed their way into fitting 5 people in the 3-person back seat. By some miracle, we made it back to the hostel safe and sound.



The next day we got up super early to head to mountain bike down Cotopaxi, the Volcano near Quito. The guide picked us up at the hostel, we brought all of our stuff with so we could head to our next destination directly after the tour.

We thought the tour was just going to be our group but the morning of we learned that one more, Harrison would be joining us. It must have been intimidating for Harrison, to be going on an all-day tour with a bunch of loud American Girls, and Ohafa. He took it all in stride though and was an amazing addition to the experience.

It is a 3 hour ride to Cotopaxi. We stopped halfway for breakfast at a local restaurant and continued on. 


Making sure Margaret had enough sunscreen was truly a group effort


When we reached the parking lot for the volcano, we started our step hike up. The first time I trekked Cotopaxi, I was unable to make it to the lodge area but this time, I made it up there with relative ease. It is the second time this trip where I did a repeat activity and I was able to explore more because I am in better physical shape (and had more time to adjust to altitude), which has been a fun experience.





Claire and Margaret, who had been feeling the affects of the high altitude most, decided not to push on to the lodge. They were feeling dizzy and light headed and we all agreed it was best not to push it since we had many more activities to come.


The rest of us made it to the lodge. It was a huge accomplishment for all of us for different reasons – for me, I conquered the hike I couldn’t before – for Ohafa, he got to see snow again for the first time 3 years – For Emily, it was the highest altitude she had ever been and the first mountain (volcano), – and for Molly, well, I don’t think it was anything extra special for her but she was happy to be there!







We walked/ran down back to the car to get suited up for the bike ride down the rest of the volcano. 


Molly started getting really sick (maybe that’s what Molly’s notable thing was about the hike, it made her sick), anyways, she sat out the bike ride out and Claire stayed in the van with her.

Next, we started racing down the side of the volcano. It didn’t take long for us to lose a volcano warrior. Margaret to a big spill early on. Claire, the literal mom of the group, frantically told the van driver to stop so Claire to attend to her. Margaret came away with a nasty road rash on her leg and some bruises – the first of many battle wounds Margaret would acquire throughout the trip.


Not long after, Ohafa took a spill of his own. He did a stylistic front flip over the handle bars. I heard about it second hand because I was in front. Harrison came riding by saying that Ohafa was down and I asked if he was okay. Harrison replied that he wasn’t sure because it was a big fall. I responded, WHAT DO YOU MEAN YOU DON’T KNOW?! But, he was fine, just a few scratches.


Emily had a close call with death as she road waaaaaaaaaaaaaay to close to the edge of the road. All and all we made it to the bottom mostly all intact.








Wild horses 
We loaded up the bikes and headed back to the breakfast spot for lunch.

Mandatory llama selfie for Maria and her potential future students. Also a shout out to Andrew because I gave obvious winks (I just learned what a journalism wink is on the plane ride to Brazil while watching  True Story) to my other siblings.
After lunch, the tour guide and Harrison left us at the lunch spot to catch the bus to Banos, our next destination. Returning to Quito would be waste because it was in the opposite direction. Taking the bus from lunch saved us time and money. Some may remember in my previous visit to Ecuador I was dropped off on the side of the road after my Cotopaxi trip. It didn’t work out so well for me, but I learned how to hitch hike and made some new friends. 

Well, anyways, this time I was really careful to get detailed directions about where and how to catch the bus to Banos. The tour guide even showed me pictures of the buses we were looking for. This time, when we were left after lunch, we caught the bus within 15 minutes and were on our way to Banos with no problems. The bus ride was uneventful except for it marked the second time we saw The Fast and Furious 8, but certainly not the last time.

It reminded me just how naïve I was when I first traveled and how much of a miracle it was that I made it out alive. *Don’t worry family, I’ve gotten better and I’m way (kind of) more careful, I swear*

Overall, the Law GFs survived their first over packed day of ambitious adventure.

Wednesday, January 10, 2018

Wait For It

 As I write this *this is past me speaking* we are stuck in another line, this one is to go through customs at the Colombian border before passing to the Ecuadorian border to go through customs there as well. Waiting in long, disorganized lines is now a very familiar feeling for Ohafa and I.

Just yesterday we had to wait 2 hours at Las Lajas, the most visited church in the Americas, to get a bus back to the nearby town we were staying in because of the holiday crowds we didn’t want a repeat at the border.

*Pictures of Las Lajas*









Turns out the 2nd-6th is one of the biggest holidays in Colombia and we got swept up in the crowds. As we wait in line at the border (we have been here 1.5 hours now) we are told that these have been the shortest lines in the days. Fish like stories are swapped about the length of the lines yesterday and the day before. Some swear that people arrived at 8 am and didn’t get through till 4 pm. We are thankful we are not them. 

*present me speaking*

WE WERE THEM AND I AM NOT THANKFUL. The way this particular border crossing works is that you bus to the Colombian border and go through customs there to leave the country. Then, you walk across a bridge and enter in Ecuador and go through their entry customs. The previous time I did this, it took maybe an hour max. 


This time, we waited 4 hours at the Colombian border to get our passports stamped. There were 3 poorly managed lines of foreigners, nationals, and elderly and families with young kids. When we actually got to the person checking our passports it took like 30 seconds max to get what we needed.


Once we were finally through, we crossed to the Ecuadorian side to find the line wrapped all the way around the customs building.The line started off moving at a decent pace but then we were stopped in the same place for about 2 hours. After some investigation, we realized it was because people who were sick of waiting were cutting the line so no progress was being made for the rest of us. Eventually people got angry enough and started shouting and shoving. The police came out to get the situation in order. It escalated before it got better – leading to mine and Ohafa’s new favorite chant of FILA! FILA! FILA! (people literally just shouting LINE! LINE! LINE!) but in the end, we got in a single file line that made it easy to tell if someone was cutting. This was done through the extremely democratic process of vouching for the people in front of you and behind you and assuring the police they were in the right place and deserved to be in the line.



5 hours later, we made it through Ecuador’s customs lines equaling a whopping 9 hours of line waiting. After all the lines, we had to run to catch a collective taxi to go to the bus station to get a bus to Quito. We were supposed to arrive in Quito around 2PM but we were now on track to arrive at 2AM. We made it to the bus station and caught a bus right before it took off for Quito. Not more than 30 minutes into the drive, we were stopped by police and they checked all of our passports to make sure we had the entry stamp. This made me feel better about waiting the 5 hours because it crossed my mind dozens of times to just enter without it. We eventually made it to Quito after our 6 hour bus ride. The taxi cabs at the bus station were trying to charge us double the rates because it was late and we were foreigners so we took a local bus instead to get to our hostel. We finally arrive at the hostel and were so grateful to be in a bed.

So now, back to the beginning. Our original plans had changed and that seems to have been a huge blessing. We originally wanted to head to Ecuador right away and work on a farm for a few days before meeting my friends in Quito. This would have meant some rapid pace traveling and some stressful days. Instead, we decided to site see a bit in Bogotá and travel leisurely down to Quito. It turns out, we never really had any choice in the matter, even if we had wanted to get to Ecuador sooner, it would have been nearly impossible because of the holiday traffic. Instead, we would have spent the first week of our trip extremely stressed out and spread thin. So, although we ended up having to wait a lot during the first week, we aslo had plenty of time to do so and were able to enjoy some incredible sights and each other’s company along the way.

During our 3 nights in Bogotá we were able to go to a bunch of really cool museums. My favorite was the Botero museum. I had learned about him starting in middle school in my Spanish classes so I really enjoyed seeing his collections and getting a guided tour.


 Here are some pictures from other cool museums.













Other highlights from the city were going up the funicular (a little train type thing that brings you to the top of a mountain). 







We wanted to go by teleferico but it was closed the day we went.

Aside from splurging on our beloved Corner 12 (a restaurant that serves pancakes and French fries all day and was a huge cornerstone and landmark for us finding our way back to the hostel) we tried not to eat out. 



In order to save money, we cooked most of our meals in the hostel. The first night we adorned our chefs caps to make rice and eggs. We didn’t pick up any salt or butter or oil so we had to hard boil the eggs and eat them and the rice plain. I advise anyone reading this blog to never have this meal. Buy the salt. It is worth the dollar. I promise.

When we bought the eggs, it was the same price to buy a dozen as it was to buy 30, being the money minded people that we are, we got the 30 eggs. I know what you are thinking, “Grace, that is a lot of eggs!” Trust me, I know. Some German guy in the hostel took it upon himself to inform us of the risks of high cholesterol and share the anecdote that if he ate that many eggs, he would puke. He came back many a time to remind us. Shout out to you German guy, wherever you may be now. Despite his best efforts to convince us otherwise, we hard boiled all the eggs. Luck we did because this sustained us for the days to come. Eggs for breakfast, eggs for dinner, eggs on the 24 hour bus ride, eggs in the hostel, eggs on top of the mountain. We picked up some salt so we could vary the egg consumption. One with salt, one without, one with, one without.

Us at hour one of 24 hours, listening to Highway to Hell. Little did we know, we were on our way to the hell that is waiting in line endlessly

The one time we decided to have a meal that wasn’t eggs and rice we ate in a convivence store. Ohafa had some water go down the wrong tube and he jokingly said in Spanish, “Estoy muriendo” (I’m dying). The woman next to us did not seem to understand the joke and was very concerned. I was too busy laughing to realize that someone was taking it seriously and was worried so Ohafa was trying to say, between haggard breaths, that he was actually fine. After that, we stuck to the eggs and rice because they hadn’t tried to kill us. 

Another one of my favorite memories so far was our last night in the city. We had originally made plans with a local Colombian to meet up at night but those fell through. Instead, we wandered the city and passed the same Irish Pub that we had seen many times while exploring. We peaked inside and saw that they had ping pong and giant Jenga and decided it was worth our time. Little did we know that a group of musicians had turned up a little before we did and played some impromptu live Irish music.

They were all seated around a table, preforming for everybody and preforming for nobody but each other. Someone in the crowd happened to be an Irish dancer and he would join in from time to time as well.




The music was amazing, and the atmosphere was perfect. It was a really surreal experience to be in Bogotá, Colombia, listening to live Irish music, with my best friend who is from Brazil as we are on an adventure of a life time and I couldn’t stop thinking just how purely happy I was in that moment and how lucky I was to be there.

Do you ever wonder how many things had to happen right in your life to end up where you are right at this moment? How lucky you have to have been and how one different decision would have lead to such a different life? From the small things that led us to the Irish pub that night, like if the Colombian local hadn’t cancelled plans on us, if we had turned right instead of left down the street, and to big things like if I had not received the FLAS scholarship, or if I wasn’t an RA in Govs when Ohafa and Daniel lived there, or if Auntie Carrie never switched me out of French class and into her Spanish class freshman year of high school. If any one of those things had turned out differently, who knows where I would be.

Traveling is always a humbling experience because I constantly am forced to rely on the kindness and generosity of those around me. It has been a while since I have travelled by the seat of my pants like we are now and it has renewed not only my love to wander but also my love for the humankind in general.


Side note: I got my haircut today for $1. Results pending. 




Hope all is well back home and across the world xx